Skellig Michael
Monday, September 11, 2006
The Skellig Islands are a group of huge craggy rocks located 12km off the southwestern tip of Ireland; the edge of the known world in the 7th Century. The largest of the three islands is called Skellig Michael, which is the Irish name for The Rock of St. Michael, who the island was dedicated to. To the inhabitants of Ireland at the time, the horizon of the Atlantic Ocean was the edge of Christendom and the world, so this rocky peak would be the meeting place between heaven and earth. Michael is the Christian saint who carries the souls of the worthy to heaven, making this rock was the perfect location to be dedicated to him.
Around 600 BC, a group of early Christians, inspired by the Desert Fathers, were seeking a place of solitude to start a monastic lifestyle and came to Skellig Michael as literally the most desolate and isolated site in Europe. In a primitive boat they made their way to the cliffs, risking certain death from the pounding surf against the rocks, and climbed the 715ft. rock peak to start their life of prayer on a small level area at the top of the island. The 12-15 inhabitants would have combatted fierce Atlantic storms, severe isolation, and numerous Viking attacks over the 600 years the site was in use, surviving on rainwater cisterns, whatever fish or birds they could catch, and a small vegetable garden they kept on top of the cliffs.
I had the rare and spectacular opportunity to hitch a ride on a lobster boat out to the island and climb to the top where I spent two hours at the monastic settlement. I was amazed at how intact the area was, so much so that it seemed the monks had been living their primitive lifestyle there up until the day I arrived. The place was so untouched I half expected meal leftovers to be in the stone huts when I entered.
The furthest I have ever been from civilization was a three day silent retreat on a mountain in Big Sur, California; but nothing could prepare me for even two hours imagining the resolve, faith, desperation, pain, and God knows whatever else it took to drive these men to the edge of the world away from all comfort and security. There have been a few times in my life when in desperation I have been ready to leave the "world" behind and flee to the wilderness in solitide. Whereas my response was usually out of a lack of courage or vision, these men possessed these qualities in a spectacular measure that is seldom seen in these days.
Posted by Benjamin Washam 6:22 AM
Labels: Ireland
