Cliffs of Moher
Monday, September 11, 2006
The Cliffs of Moher were once another desolate location on Irelands rocky west coast, but sadly, it has been taken over by tourism. To reach the point from where I took this photo, I had to pass through a sprawling parking lot full of tour coaches, a bustling tourist shop and cafe, a huge construction site where a new visitor's center was being built, and past a constant stream of thousands of tourists per day walking along a paved and walled path along the edge. It was grand to see, but the irony of the tourism boom took quite an edge off of the wonder these massive cliffs plunging into the ocean.
Posted by Benjamin Washam 1:20 PM 0 comments
Labels: Ireland
Skellig Michael
The Skellig Islands are a group of huge craggy rocks located 12km off the southwestern tip of Ireland; the edge of the known world in the 7th Century. The largest of the three islands is called Skellig Michael, which is the Irish name for The Rock of St. Michael, who the island was dedicated to. To the inhabitants of Ireland at the time, the horizon of the Atlantic Ocean was the edge of Christendom and the world, so this rocky peak would be the meeting place between heaven and earth. Michael is the Christian saint who carries the souls of the worthy to heaven, making this rock was the perfect location to be dedicated to him.
Around 600 BC, a group of early Christians, inspired by the Desert Fathers, were seeking a place of solitude to start a monastic lifestyle and came to Skellig Michael as literally the most desolate and isolated site in Europe. In a primitive boat they made their way to the cliffs, risking certain death from the pounding surf against the rocks, and climbed the 715ft. rock peak to start their life of prayer on a small level area at the top of the island. The 12-15 inhabitants would have combatted fierce Atlantic storms, severe isolation, and numerous Viking attacks over the 600 years the site was in use, surviving on rainwater cisterns, whatever fish or birds they could catch, and a small vegetable garden they kept on top of the cliffs.
I had the rare and spectacular opportunity to hitch a ride on a lobster boat out to the island and climb to the top where I spent two hours at the monastic settlement. I was amazed at how intact the area was, so much so that it seemed the monks had been living their primitive lifestyle there up until the day I arrived. The place was so untouched I half expected meal leftovers to be in the stone huts when I entered.
The furthest I have ever been from civilization was a three day silent retreat on a mountain in Big Sur, California; but nothing could prepare me for even two hours imagining the resolve, faith, desperation, pain, and God knows whatever else it took to drive these men to the edge of the world away from all comfort and security. There have been a few times in my life when in desperation I have been ready to leave the "world" behind and flee to the wilderness in solitide. Whereas my response was usually out of a lack of courage or vision, these men possessed these qualities in a spectacular measure that is seldom seen in these days.
Posted by Benjamin Washam 6:22 AM 0 comments
Labels: Ireland
More Pictures from Skellig Michael
This point stretches 300 feet up from the narrow passage the stone stairway follows.
Over 600 stairs lead precariously up from the origional boat landing site 715 feet up to the monastary. Each step was hand constructed by carrying slate stone found from around the rock faces and stacking them without mortar. The steps were so well constructed and so tightly fitted that every stair is still intact today.
A small cemetary fills some of the scarce flat area where the brothers were burried.
Posted by Benjamin Washam 6:06 AM 0 comments
Labels: Ireland
The Western Shore
The southern edge of the Kerry Peninsula.
Posted by Benjamin Washam 6:05 AM 0 comments
Labels: Ireland
Western Ireland Day 1 and 2
Sunday, September 10, 2006
Wednesday night we started the trip down to Kilkenny from Dublin where we stayed in a hostel and then toured Muckross House, a fantastic mansion sprawled on a picturesque lake in the mountains. Asal's favorite part was the 4 ton billiards table carved from a walnut tree.
We also visited an ancient fort built entirely out of free-stacked stones (no mortar at all). Pretty impressive to see it now, considering the place was "in ruins" long before anyone had every heard of North America.
That night we checked into a smart new hostel in Portmagee on the far southwestern shore, a small fishing villiage. Mike and I hung out for the evening in the "Moorings," one of three local pubs where evening socializing takes place. We shared a fun evening with Allison and Steve, a British couple from London who were on holiday. Good food, good drink, and good company.
Posted by Benjamin Washam 6:56 PM 0 comments
Labels: Ireland
Exploring the Wild West (of Ireland)
A quick post to update on where I've been, a more detailed story to come. I got back yesterday from a four day, whirlwind tour of the western parts of Ireland. The west is generally more "traditional" and "old-fashioned" than the hip eastern shore; also the home of Irelands hills, cliffs, and endless tour coaches full of rowdy German tourists. The following posts will detail specific stops along the way.
Posted by Benjamin Washam 6:41 PM 0 comments
Labels: Ireland
Ireland Day 1 and 2
Saturday, September 02, 2006
I finally made it to Ireland Friday morning and was gratefull to be met my Mike's parents, and aunt and uncle who proceeded to whisk me off directly to their favorite fish and chips place on the coast north of Dublin. After having my fill and more, we landed at 7 Corbawn Grove, Shankill, County Dublin, Ireland - their home. I slept like a baby.
The next day I was picked up my Mike's brother and sister in law, Matt and Hailey, and their two wonderful kids for my first Irish Fete. A fete is basically a giant yard sale that the entire town comes out to for the purpose of swapping junk around, plus all the small rides and food booths of a carnival, plus a gymnasium full of baked goods and happy ladies in the biggest bake sale I've ever seen (including the best banana-walnut bread I've ever purchased for 1 euro.), all sponsored by a local church, for the purpose of raising money for a school. It all sounds rather confusing, but when visited in person it is simply delightful. It was almost a dream come true for me - two of my favorite things in the world: cheap junk and baked goods!
There was one thing at the fete that really threw me off. They had a local band playing music for the fete which could be heard far beyond the limits of the church grounds. I got out of the car a couple blocks away and was startled and confused to hear not traditional Irish music beckoning me, but downright Dixieland Jazz blaring out from a quintet on the stage! And they were downright good, too! I guess it was a tribute to the globalism and multiculturalism that has overtaken much of this small nation by storm over the past decade. All in all, it was very disorienting on my first day of exploring Irish culture to have my foot tapping to a soaring trombone improvosation over a Duke Ellington-esque jam.
It was at this most unusual, and most enjoyable church/circus/garage sale that I made my first lasting friend in Ireland, and I'd like to introduce him to you, because he will probably be showing up in a lot of pictures after this. 
His name is Asal. (Donkey in Irish.) I found him while rummaging through the bottom of a bin in the 'Toys' tent at the fete. He's one of those genius German made wooden toys. As you press up on a spring-loaded disk on the bottom of the base, the strings running through his body can be controlled, almost like a puppet. Basically, this donkey can dance!
That's all for now, I've got to run to a 21st birthday party for a girl at "The Goat" pub in Goatstown. Check back later!
Posted by Benjamin Washam 7:58 PM 4 comments
Labels: Ireland
